ENGLISH
中文版
2017-12-08
By 雷蒙叔叔
走進冰雪初融的南極

 

從烏斯懷亞啟航,穿過德雷克海峽,經歷了近50個小時的航行之後,終於看見了第一座冰山,第一個島嶼。11月的南極,冰雪初融,冰山與浮冰在陽光下散射著悠悠的藍色,那是時間濃縮在冰雪裡的模樣。

 

Nearly 50 hours after leaving Ushuaia,glaciers and islands emerged from the edge of skyline. In November, the Antarctica is melting away. Icebergs and floating ice are shining in blue, and the blue light is the appearance of time stayed in snow and ice for hundreds or even thousands of years.

 


冰雪初融的南極   Melting away Antarctica

 

感受南極,用身體的每一個細胞和心靈的每一次跳動,然後,它會成為妳生命的一部分。

 

It takes every cell in your body and every beating of your heart to experience the Antarctica. And you got what you experienced. 

 

巡遊在南極海  Cruise on the Antarctica Sea 

 

下面推送:在突然來襲的大面積浮冰中撤離達莫依島,成功回到“前進號”……

 

Next week preview: Breaking out of sudden cluster of floating ice and back to “FRAM” safely from Damoy Point……

 

 

真正讓南極美到心痛的,不是與雲相接的雪線,也不是骨骼驚奇的冰山,而是漂浮在海面上的大片的浮冰。那幽藍的光,是千百年的層層積雪覆蓋之下形成的密實的冰川冰才有的光芒。沒有歷練,時間留不下這麽美麗的痕跡。

 

The snowline into the cloud and the ice mountain in astonishing shape were beautiful; the crushed ice floating on the sea, however, was touching. The quiet blue light glowing from the ice was signatures of glacier ice, which was formed under pressure of all that snow accumulated for hundreds or thousands of years.  

 

 

浮冰中突圍

 

那天,“前進號”在達莫依角附近拋錨,船上200多人分成6個組登陸達莫依角。達莫依角,因為開闊的地形,曾經被英國南極站用作飛機降落的基地。緩緩的雪坡,簡潔的線條和紅色藍色的小屋賦予這個小島童話世界般純潔簡單的氣質。

 

That day, FRAM dropped anchor near Damoy Point.The 200 plus passengers were going to land at Damoy Point in 6 groups. Damoy Point, used to be a British air facility and transit station given its spread landscapes. Snow-covered gentle incline and clear and simple snowline, as well as red and blue cabins made up a fairy tale world of my childhood readings.  

 

正當所有的人都沈浸在這夢幻的童話世界的時候,探險隊員們緊急通知大家:所有人立即撤回登陸點,因為風向的改變,一大片巨大而密集的浮冰正在向“前進號”靠近,我們要趕在航路被封鎖之前離開這個港灣,否則,不知要停留多久。“在南極,一切由風、冰、霧、浪說了算。”這是探險隊長天天在說的話

 

Everyone was obsessed by this real fairy tale world, when an emergency announcement came from the expedition team:”Everyone must go back to the landing point at once”. The wind changed its direction and floating ice was gathering around FRAM, we had to leave this bay before the channel was  blocked otherwise we had to stay until the channel was clear, and nobody knew how long it would take……Expedition team leader Tessa was saying every day: “In Antarctica, it’s really ice, fog, wind and wave dependent’.

 

 

當我踏著一尺多深的積雪趕回登陸點,登上沖鋒舟,在巨大而密集的浮冰之間穿梭而行時,我感受到了浮冰的美,攜千年時空的歷練而來,隨風隨浪漂泊而去,不問前一刻身在何處,不想下一刻是否消融,用每一個美麗的當下,經歷自己成住壞空的修行。

 

 I rushed back to the landing point in more than a foot of snow and took on the polarcirkel boat. While the boat was making its way through huge and thick floating ice, I was touched by the beauty of crushed floating ice. They came to here through thousands of years; they drifted with wind and wave; they never minded where they were and whether they would melt away next moment; they were being the beautiful present and this was the way they experienced their existence and disappearance.   

 

 

冰川上露營

 

11月23號晚上9點鐘,我們20多個人登上杜梅島(Doumer Island)。向暮色中漸行漸遠的“前進號”揮手告別。在我們心中,那就是我們在南極的家,有溫暖的床、香噴噴的飯和熱騰騰的洗澡水。體會過天寒地凍的滋味,別的都不再重要了。

 

At 9 o’clock in the evening of November 23rd, more than 20 of us landed on Doumer Island and waved goodbye to FRAM, our home in the Antarctica.

 

 

今晚,我們做一回貪玩兒不回家的孩子。在南緯64°49.85”,11月的晚上10點多天色也只是黃昏。灰茫茫的海面,深褐色的巖石,白皚皚的雪地,紅彤彤的帳篷,這個黃昏,是一幅淡雅的水彩畫。

 

Tonight, we were going to sleep over in the snow. The picturesque twilight of grey sea, dark brown rock, white snow and red camp was the look of ten o’clock evening in November at 64°49.85”South Latitude.

 

靜靜的坐在冰天雪地中,呼吸著凜冽的空氣,聽著呼呼的海風,遠處偶爾傳來轟隆隆的聲音,那是大面積的冰雪從山頂崩塌落入山谷的回響,這響聲更突顯了山川的寂靜。 

 

I sit in the silence, breathed the chilly air and heard the wind. Now and then, there came snowslide rumbling from the valleys far away.

 

天、地和我,是那個時空所有的存在了。我和一只企鵝,一只象海豹,一只信天翁,沒有什麽不同,從天地而來,被天地滋養,在天地間輪回。南極,讓生命回歸到最簡單的存在和同一。

 

The sky, the earth and myself were the world in that space and time. I had no difference with a penguin, an elephant seal, or an albatross. We were identically from the universe, fed by the universe, and back and forth. The Antarctica defines life as the simple and identical existence.  

 

這一夜,睡得香甜。早上醒來,拉開帳篷,呼嘯的寒風夾著雪花撲面而來。早安,南極!

 

I had a good sleep through the night in the tent.  When I woke up and opened the tent, harsh wind blowed snow into my face.  Goodmorning, Antarctica. 

 

 

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