ENGLISH
中文版
2017-12-01
By 雷蒙叔叔
走向南極,經歷德雷克海峽的天使與魔鬼時刻

“前進號”安靜的滑出烏斯懷亞港灣,沿著比格爾水道向東然後向南航行,陸地漸漸的消失在視線裡。探險隊長Tessa說,我們的船大約在4個多小時後進入德雷克海峽。用40多個小時穿越這片水域,是從南美州到達南極洲最近的航路。

 

As “FRAM”(Froward, Danish) slid out of the port of Ushuaia, sailing east and then south along Beagle Channel, the land gradually disappeared from sight. The expedition team leader Tessa announced that FRAM will be entering the Drake Passage in about 4 hours. This 40 plus hours crossing is the shortest route from South America to Antarctica. 

 

德雷克海峽這片水域,從地理上講,它隔開了南美洲與南極洲,貫通了大西洋與太平洋;從生物學上講,這片營養豐富的海域是很多種海洋生物與海鳥的天堂;在探險家和旅行者日誌裡,它是真實版的“Rock with You”(邁克傑克遜的歌);在西班牙的文化裡,這個重要的航道叫作The Mar de Hoces(荷塞西海),不是所謂的德雷克海峽(The Drake Passage),因為西班牙的歷史記載著航海家Francisco de Hoces 先於英國私掠船長Francis Drake發現了南美大陸南端的這片水域。

 

Geographically, the waters of Drake Passge separates South America and Antarctica while connects the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. Biologically,the Passage is heaven of marine wildlife as being one of the most nutritious zone on the planet. In their log of sailing, explorers and travelers describe it as the place giving real experience of “Rock with You” (Michael Jackson’s song).However, in Spanish literature, this important passage is named The Mar de Hoces, instead of so-called“the Drake Passage”, because Spanish history recorded Spanish sailor Francisco de Hoces preceded English privateer Francis Drake in referring this open water area to the south of South American continent.

 

 

“魔鬼海峽”的溫柔時刻

Sweet Moment in “the Devil Passage”

 

“魔鬼海峽”也有溫柔的一面。夏天,南極融化的冰水與北方溫暖的海水交鋒,冷水下沈的過程將深層海水的養分帶到海面,使這片海域成為世界上營養最豐富的海域之一,滋養了十分豐富的海洋生物。

 

“The Devil Passage” does have sweet moments. In summer, cold waters of melting ice from Antarctica meet with warmer waters here, creating upwelling nutrients in deep waters which makes this sea area is one of the most nutritious zone on the planet. Thanks to the foodchains, marine species are pleasantly wealth and diverse. 

 

湛藍的天空下,碧藍的海水蕩起溫柔的浪花,成群的信天翁展開寬大的羽翼在船尾翺翔。運氣好的話,座頭鯨會在船頭船尾追逐嬉戲,好像特別享受甲板上的陣陣歡呼。這時候的德雷克海峽,像個爭寵的孩子,討好般的送上一個又一個的驚喜。

 

The sea gently waves under blue sky; flocks of albatross soar over the boat. If luck would have it, humpback whales play around the boat back and forth, enjoying cheers and screamings from people on the deck. The Drake Passage, at this moment, like a kid rivaling for attention, delivers pleasant surprise one after another.

 

幸運的是,我們的航行中,確實與德雷克海峽、與鯨魚和海鳥度過了一段這樣美好的時光。

 

Fortunately, we did have such wonderful times  with the Drack Passage, the humpback whales and the albatrosses in our voyage.

 

平靜的海面,信天翁在船尾翺翔,鯨魚在船頭追逐

 

有壹種顛簸叫德雷克

TheDrake Shake

 

南緯40°~ 50°地區的冷空氣從西向東移動,在這片毫無陸地遮擋的海域,形成了流量相當於亞馬遜河流量600倍的環南極洋流(也叫“西風帶”)。而德雷克海峽,是環南極洋流流經的最狹窄海域,這就是為什麽德雷克海峽以波濤洶湧而聞名。

 

Cold air in the belt of 40°~ 50°south latitude blows from west to east unimpededly and thus forms Antarctica Circumpolar Current (alternatively known as “West Wind Drift”), which carries huge volume of water equivalent to 600 times the flow of Amazon River. Moreover,Drake Passage is the narrowest area that the Antarctica Circumpolar Current runs through, that’s why the reputed roughest passage in the world.

 

我們的船經歷了風和日麗的德雷克海峽之後,終於沒有錯過它激情四射的本性。

 

Following the experience of the sunshine and calm Drake Passage, we finally did not miss its bursting of passionate nature.

 

我在甲板上拍下面這段視頻的時候,浪高8米,劇烈的晃動加上10級以上的海風,已經不能站立。我坐在5層的甲板上,從欄桿的縫隙裡拍攝這段視頻。我們的船就是一朵浪花,被拋起然後落下。

 

When I filmed the video below on the deck, 8-meters-high wave with 10-levels-wind shook the boat so drastically that I had to sat on the deck and filmed between the handrails. The boat was thrown up and down like a wave.

 

起起伏伏的船頭,巨浪滔天的海面

 

一個水手跑到甲板上,把我拖回船艙裡,然後關閉了通向甲板的門。我知道,我們乘坐的探險郵輪,配備了最先進的穩定系統、GPS、天氣預測系統和經驗豐富的探險隊,除了盡情感受德雷克的晃動和暈船的反應,什麽危險都不會有。

 

A sailor rushed to the deck and called me back to cabin. I knew that the expedition boat was equipped with the state of the art stabilizers to absorb swaying, GPS, weather forecast system and experienced expedition team so there is no such thing as dangerousness except to throw myself into the experience of the Drake Shake and somewhat seasick.

 

人類文明的成果,讓我們更了解自然,而了解的價值在於對自然更深刻的敬畏和尊重,並非征服。就像探險隊長Tessa總是掛在嘴邊的壹句話:“在南極,一切由冰、風、浪、霧說了算”。

 

Achievements of civilization enable human beings to know the nature better, but this is only valuable when respect to nature instead of desire of conquers grows. As Tessa always said: “In Antarctica, it's really ice, wind, wave and fog dependent.”

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